What is Hemp Fabric?
Hemp fabric is a type of textile made from the fibers extracted from the stalks of the Cannabis sativa plant. Recognized for its exceptional tensile strength and durability, hemp has been utilized for thousands of years, but its association with the psychoactive properties of cannabis has complicated its cultivation and acceptance in modern agriculture.
Historical Context and Cultivation of Hemp
Over the millennia, Cannabis sativa has been selectively bred for two primary purposes:
Psychoactive Use: Some cultivators have focused on increasing the levels of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and other cannabinoids, which give cannabis its psychoactive effects. This strain is typically associated with marijuana.
Fiber Production: Other cultivators have prioritized breeding Cannabis sativa for its fibers, minimizing the production of psychoactive cannabinoids. This has resulted in the emergence of distinct strains specifically for industrial use, commonly referred to as hemp.
Hemp has been used for thousands of years across various civilizations, valued primarily for its durable fibers and versatility in different industries. The cultivation of Cannabis sativa, the plant from which hemp is derived, dates back to ancient times, with records showing its use in textiles, medicine, and even paper production as early as 8,000 BCE.
Early Uses of Hemp
In ancient China, hemp was one of the first plants spun into fibers. It was used to make clothing, ropes, and paper, with archaeological evidence suggesting it was cultivated extensively. The Chinese also used hemp seeds for medicinal purposes and as a food source, showing its diverse utility.
In ancient India and Egypt, hemp was similarly used for creating textiles, ropes, and sails for ships. The plant’s strong fibers made it ideal for maritime applications, especially during the Age of Sail when hemp ropes and sails were crucial for naval and trade expeditions.
Hemp in Europe and North America
Hemp cultivation spread to Europe by the Middle Ages, where it became integral to the economy. Farmers grew hemp for its fibers, which were used in everything from cloth to parchment. By the 16th century, it was also being grown in the Americas, where British colonies in what is now the United States were encouraged to cultivate it for industrial uses.
Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, two founding fathers of the U.S., are well-known historical figures who grew hemp. In fact, hemp was such a valuable crop that for a period, it was even legal to pay taxes with hemp in certain parts of the American colonies.
The Rise of Cannabis Regulation
Despite its long history of agricultural use, the fate of hemp changed in the 20th century. With the rise of psychoactive cannabis (marijuana) and its association with recreational drug use, hemp began to be grouped with its THC-rich counterpart. This association led to restrictive legislation worldwide, particularly in the U.S., where the Marihuana Tax Act of 1937 made it difficult for farmers to grow hemp.
In the 1970s, the Controlled Substances Act further restricted hemp cultivation by classifying all forms of Cannabis sativa as illegal. This global regulatory shift marginalized the industrial hemp industry, despite the fact that hemp contains only trace amounts of THC, the psychoactive compound in marijuana.
The Modern Hemp Renaissance
However, in recent decades, there has been a resurgence in the cultivation of hemp as its environmental benefits and versatility in textiles have been rediscovered. Countries like Canada, France, and China have been leaders in the modern hemp industry, cultivating the plant for use in textiles, food products, and building materials.
In the United States, the 2018 Farm Bill legalized the cultivation of industrial hemp, as long as it contains less than 0.3% THC. This legislative change sparked renewed interest in hemp farming, paving the way for hemp to regain its place as a sustainable crop in modern agriculture.
Selective Breeding and Cultivation
Hemp cultivators have spent generations selectively breeding Cannabis sativa for distinct purposes. While one strain of the plant has been bred to increase the production of THC and other cannabinoids for recreational and medicinal use, another strain has been cultivated specifically for its fibers, leading to the emergence of industrial hemp.
Farmers have reduced the psychoactive properties of hemp, creating strains that are nearly free of THC while focusing on maximizing fiber production. These hemp strains are optimized for textile purposes, with plants producing long, durable bast fibers ideal for fabric and other industrial applications.
Hemp Plant Structure
The stalks of the hemp plant are key to its textile uses. They consist of:
Outer Layer (Bast Fibers): The rope-like fibers that are used for textiles, rope, and other products.
Inner Layer (Woody Pith): This layer is typically used for non-textile purposes such as fuel, building materials, and even animal bedding.
Hemp’s versatility, sustainability, and history of cultivation make it one of the oldest, yet most innovative, plants used by human civilizations. As modern awareness of climate change and sustainable practices grows, hemp is experiencing a renaissance, not just in agriculture but also in industries like fashion, construction, and food production.
Characteristics of Hemp
A common misconception is that hemp is derived solely from the male Cannabis sativa plant while psychoactive marijuana comes from the female. In reality, most hemp harvested globally originates from female plants. These hemp strains are selectively bred to be low in THC and typically do not produce the sticky buds associated with marijuana.
Processing and Uses
After the bast fibers are separated from the stalk, they can be processed into various forms, such as rope or yarn. Hemp rope, historically favored for its strength, was once the material of choice for rigging and sails on ships. Today, hemp is recognized as an excellent textile for clothing, often outperforming cotton and synthetic fibers.
Despite its numerous benefits, legislation in many countries does not differentiate between THC-rich marijuana and low-THC hemp. This has led to a stigma that hampers the widespread use of hemp in various industries. Fortunately, an increasing number of countries are beginning to embrace the cultivation of industrial hemp, signaling a resurgence in its use.
Textural and Functional Qualities
Once processed into fabric, hemp has a texture that is similar to cotton but also exhibits characteristics akin to canvas. Key features of hemp fabric include:
Durability: Hemp fabric is resistant to shrinkage and pilling. It can last significantly longer than cotton; estimates suggest that hemp garments can endure two to three times longer than cotton ones.
Strength: Hemp fabric is approximately three times stronger than cotton, making it an ideal choice for long-lasting clothing.
Breathability: Its lightweight nature allows for excellent airflow, making it suitable for hot climates. Hemp fabric effectively wicks moisture away from the skin, enhancing comfort in warm weather.
Mold and Mildew Resistance: Hemp’s natural properties make it resistant to mold, mildew, and harmful microbes.
Easy to Dye: Hemp fabric can be dyed easily, allowing for a wide variety of colors and styles.
Sustainability and Production
Hemp fabric softens with each wash without degrading, retaining its quality even after numerous cycles. The sustainable production of organic hemp fabric further solidifies its status as an eco-friendly textile, making it a virtually ideal choice for environmentally conscious clothing.